belson

The bus was full enough for leaving. The views along the road Kashgar - Tashgoran was amazing (see facebook for pictures). There were a lot of travellers on the bus, all waiting for the border to open the 1 May. We had fun in Tashkorgan visited a fort, walked around, ate some food and drank beer.

 

Next day we passed the Chinese custom, and about 200 passport controls. We got stuck in the snow and everybody has to help with digging, pushing and such, still sick I wasn't too much help. Later we also have to take rocks from the road.

 

Late evening we got to Pakistan and Sost. It was completely dark because there was no electricity and the custom people were stoned. Finally in Pakistan! I thought. Sost is a really small place but still everybody runned up and down on the street very confusing but at after a while we found a hotel some food (I was finally well again and starving!)  A cold shower and then bedtime.

 

Next day I runned around and tried to change my dollars for some Pakistani rupie, but it was impossible. This most be one of the few place on earth American dollars isn't a good value. We had breakfast and left with our Chinese sleeper bus. The views again amazing, I just wanted to jump off and stay, but as my flight left in 2 days I didn't. All the other guys jumped off in Karimabad that seemed to be a really nice place. We stopped for food after a while in a simple lunch place, there was one room for men and one in the back for women. I sat down with the men I knew from the bus and no one seemed to mind. It's interesting how much nicer the mens room are than the one for women. 

Then off we go. A lot off heartbreaking views and in the evening we arrived in Gilgit. I decided to stop there over night, mostly because the areas I have to pass down to Islamabad was known as a little "bad" areas and the Lonely Planet said to avoid travel in night time. Now with the result in my hand I should have continued.

Anyway, a met this old man on the bus who was really nice to me. He was from Peshawar, belonged to a tribe there and had travelled a lot. He was so not judgemental and really nice. 

 

I got a room in a hotel on the bus station and then asked the guy in the reception if he knew any internet close by. He ordered a guy to give my a ride. A got a ride down to town, and the driver refused to take money for it. The interetplace was broken, a walked around and asked some people for intenet, a man who owned a guesthouse offered me to use theirs. The electricity went off and the man offered to help my buying a suitcase I needed to buy. We drank tea and he bargained for me. He carried all my stuff and then let my use internet again when electricity got back. I met his brother and some other people, and a cute kid. Then I got french fries and a ride back in their military jeep from the 50ties. He refused to take any money and said I was their guest. Really nice people.

 

I think all this "taking care off" might be because I'm alone as a girl, problebly they feel sorry or worried for me, but it is problebly also normal "muslim hospitality" - whatever it is the people are so friendly and nice.

 

Next morning the bus for Islamabad left 8 a clock in the morning. My flight from Islamabad was 4.30 next morning. Only men in the bus except me and 2 French girls, one from the embassy and one working with NGO.  We drove, the views was stunning. Suddenly there was a load sound, a big rock had fell on the drivers window. We stopped and everybody was a bit upset. The window was crashed, but not broken, right were the driver needed to see. If the window broke he could have driven off the road and off from the steep. A bit scary. 

Anyway, I was really worried for my flight as the bus to me looked undrivable, but as we are in Pakistan we just continued driving, the driver looking on the side of the crashed area he was leaning a lot to the left and couldn't had much sight at all to the right. This did reduce the speed a lot. I was still very worried about my flight, tried to ask a little how far it was to Islamabad, but got answers like "Inshallah you will make it" and didn't really care after all. If I make it I make it I thought, and that's the idea of "Inshallah" I guess. 

We got to Islamabad 4 a clock and my calm mood was long gone, I was really stressed out. Got a taxi driver to drive as he stole the car to the airport ran past all the lines and stressed the security, got to the gate and it says: 5.30 instead of 4.30. The time was now 4.30; I didn't really get it, one hour later? I asked the girl behind the desk, she laughed and said: "do you know how often I get this question" I laughed and didn't understand but didn't care; I was going to make it! Then she gave me some forms to fill in, one with my address in New York, I didn't really had an address jet and my friend in NY was sleeping and didn’t answer her phone, I tried to make an address up but was too tired. I thought: if I'm going to miss my flight because if this it's almost funny ... almost. Anyway I stood there looked a bit sad and she let me through after a while. I made it! But I'm really sad I didn't have more time in Pakistan. My few days here was really promising and I just wanted to stay, something feelt like home. Want to go back and do the Karakoram by bike, would be great!